McCalls 7464 is a cute variation on a simple princess seam shift dress. At the waist, the curved princess seams turn back towards the side seams, reaching them at the hips, making neat curved insets at each side. With the right choice of material and pattern, this can be a slimming style. With the wrong choices, not so much.
At first, I thought that adding thin black piping to outline the curved princess insets would be slimming enough, and, in a different fabric, they might be. But the horizontal lines in this boucle just made me look wide.
So I ended up removing the insets and replacing them with solid black double knit insets. Why double knit? Well, I wanted black, but my stash had no plain, black wovens heavy enough to work (rayon challis is way too light to work with the suiting weight polyester boucle). But, I had yards and yards of this sturdy black, slightly twill looking double knit. I had originally purchased a small piece for pants. I made them up, loved them, and promptly ordered a lot more fabric, thinking I’d be making a lot more pants. But, after two or three wearings as pants, the fabric started to pill miserably. I’ve used it since then in tops and dresses and it holds up much better in those applications. It’s a sturdy knit that holds it’s shape well, so I used it for my replacement inserts.
The pattern itself is fairly simple. A front, a back, a front side insert, a back side insert, and sleeved, your choice of 3/4, elbow or sleeveless. The directions were clear, the assembly order made sense, and the notches matched up.
One selvade of my fabric had awesome short, soft fringe, with traces of the multicolor. I used a double thickness to finish the neck and sleeves. My original plan was to use a single layer and finish the skirt hem with a single layer of the same fringe, but I didn’t have enough selvage to do that. So, I doubled up on the fringe and the neck and the sleeves.
That left a dilemma for finishing the hem. The other selvade was not attractive and had no fringe. I was going to make my own fringed edging for them when I saw some designer dresses online with completely unfinished hems. The fabric had been left to fringe naturally, much like old denim shorts.
So, that’s how I finished the hem of the skirt. I just cut it off!!! I’m not sure I like the look, but I can always change it by turning it up with a facing or edging.