Simplicity 3955 OOP Animal Shaped Fleece Throw Bear, Lady Bug, Clown Fish

I needed to make a little something for my newest grand-niece. I found this pattern in my craft pattern stash. I think it is OOP now, because the going price on Ebay and Etsy is almost $40!! It’s a nice pattern, but NOT worth THAT much money!!

I probably should have looked at the dimensions printed on the back of the pattern envelope before beginning this project. Because this throw is WAY too big for an infant! Hopefully she will grow into it, or maybe her older brother will enjoy it right now. This throw is close to 5 ft x 6 ft! It’s almost adult sized!

The concept behind these throws is simple. Fleece doesn’t ravel, so there’s no need to finish the seam allowances or edges. The seam allowances are on the FRONT or TOP or OUTSIDE of the throw. This puzzled me for a minute, until I realized it leaves a smooth back, which might be more comfortable.

It also allows the seam allowances to become outlines on the animal shape. Very clever!

The throws are a double layer of fleece, When the underlayer is a different color from the upper layer, and the seam is sewn with the seam allowance on the outside, the contrasting bottom color seam allowance makes a nice design line.

The only problem is that in some places this makes a LOT of layers. Two layers of fleece, sewn together to make a single piece, isn’t bad. Sew two of those layers together and you’re sewing through four layers of fleece. Now cross that seam at 90 degrees with yet another seam, and now it’s just a thick monster. And, because I was using furry fleece, I had a thick, furry monster. My poor Babylock Symphony struggled in places, and that machine never ever struggles!

I didn’t use the black and white suggested by the pattern. I fell in love with a three yard pre cut piece of brown and cream camouflage furry fleece at my local craft store. I chose a furry brown for the head. I wanted cream for the belly, but they had no furry cream so I settled on foggy grey.

I had a little trouble keeping the slippery fleece layers together when stitching the top layer to the bottom layer. I wish I had used my walking foot!

I think I will use this pattern again, to make the bug. I have some bright green fleece in my stash and the craft store carries black fleece. BUT I will look for ways to reduce the bulk in some of the seams. And, I will use my walking foot when sewing the top layer to the bottom layer, to reduce stretching and slipping.

Would I recommend this pattern? Yes, but not for $40! I suggest buying the current animal throw pattern, and use that as a starting point to draft your own bug, or bear, or fish, or dinosaur, or whatever.

Also, this bear seems to have no hands or front paws. I’ll add them if I make the bear again.

And yes, the bears nose IS crooked!! I’m going to blame my cat for that. KC liked laying on the bear during construction. Maybe the bear thinks KC smells funny? LOL!!!!

<b>Pattern Description: </b>
Fun animal shaped fleece throws

<b>Pattern Sizing:</b>
One size fits all

<b>Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?</b>
Yes, except I used different colors

<b>Were the instructions easy to follow?</b>
Mostly yes. The seam allowances for these throws are on the RIGHT or OUTSIDE of the throw. I didn’t see this mentioned in the instructions, although it’s clear from the drawings.

<b>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</b>
In some places, the double layer of fleece plus the folded back seam allowances make a lot of bulk, and that’s doubled in places where seams meet and cross

<b>Fabric Used:</b>
Fluffy fleece

<b>Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:</b>
I used different colors

<b>Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?</b>
Yes, I would sew this again, but I’d take steps to reduce the bulk at the seams and maybe even make my version reversible. The bug looks like a fun throw!


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Kwik Sew 3121 with Faux Ribbing

Kwik Sew 3121 is pretty much my go-to pattern when I want a dartless, boxy fit pullover. It makes a great starting point for interesting designs. This particular design features a full cowl neck of self faux ribbing adorned with a decorative buckle, and long, full sleeves ending in thick cuffs of self faux ribbing.

For this make, I used a soft poly sweater knit with just a touch of metallic gold from Fabric Mart.  I made the faux self-ribbing from the fabric by sewing pin tucks, following threads in the sweater knit.

The faux ribbing is one of those fun projects I will never do again!! It was difficult to get right and very time consuming. At first I tried following the suggestions I found online and in an old issue of Threads Magazine to use a twin needle and a pin tuck foot. No matter what I did to the tension, stitch length or any other setting, the tucks came out messy at best. Worst still the thread from spool # 2 kept breaking. I tried rethreading, I tried different spools of thread, nothing helped.

Eventually I gave up and started looking through my stash for an acceptable alternative ribbing. I toyed with the idea of abandoning the ribbing altogether. I had no suitable alternative ribbing, so I decided to give it one more try.

This time, I used a single needle and a zipper foot, following the pattern in the sweater knit. To keep the ribbing even and avoid twisting, I stitched every tuck in the opposite direction. The resulting tucks were wider and deeper than the results from the twin needle and pintuck foot. And it took a little practice to get each tuck neat. It took a very long time, going up one tuck and down the next, and a lot of thread, to actually gather the material into the tucks. The faux ribbing also used a lot of material. The cowl neck is made from a strip of flat fabric a full 60 inches long! But with all the pin tucks, it gathers into a piece of faux ribbing just big enough to finish the neck!

NOTE: In the photos the sleeve is pinned to the front of the sweater so it’s easy to see the deep self faux ribbing on the cuffs.


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Butterick 5954 Again!

This make was a spontaneous spur of the moment kind of thing. I had just put the pattern away in the pattern drawer, and was digging through my stash looking for a piece for a different project. I came across this amazing Lilly Pad Green chenille design crepe knit. I knew I had to make it up in a short sleeve version of this Butterick  pattern, so I went right back to the pattern drawer and pulled it back out.

At first I was afraid I would not have enough fabric to get all the pieces going in the same direction. I decided if one big piece had to be upside down, it would be the front overlap. And, if necessary, I could cut the sleeves on the cross grain. But luckily I was able to get all the pieces, including the sleeves, going in the right direction.

I used a coverstitch on the hem again, but this time I had a little trouble with the thread breaking. I don’t know why. I used a mini-cowl for the collar and added a couple of  green glass buttons for extra color. I used the short sleeves, but instead of hemming them up all the way around I tacked the hem up in just a few spots, and added a button, so the sleeves have a little bit of poof at the bottom.

I love the softness, texture and color of the fabric. And I love the long, full back on this pattern. The line drawing really doesn’t show just how full the back is.

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Butterick 6487 The Real Make

SilkblouseoneI rarely make samples or mock ups, but I’m glad I did with Butterick 6487. I did it because I was afraid the design changes I made would cause a problem. Instead, I made several silly mistakes, and I’m glad I got them out of the way on the sample blouse!

For this make I used a floral print silk crepe de chine from Fabric Mart. The piece was barely enough for blouse and long ties, even a tiny cutting mistake could ruin the project completely!

Learning from my sleeve mistake on the previous make, I double checked each pattern piece to be sure it was the correct piece. The ties are rectangles cut on the cross gran from the little bit of fabric left after cutting out the blouse.

I also remembered my vent mistake on the previous make. This time I used a piece of super light weight fusible interfacing on the spot where the sleeve is slit, to prevent raveling. The pattern suggests a narrow hem on the slit, but I prefer faced slits. So I cut a piece of scrap into a rectangle, and interfaced it with the same super light weight fusible. I placed the facing face down on the right side of the sleeve. I stitched along the stitching lines, using a shorter stitch (1.8) near the top and taking two stitches across the top. Then I cut the slit as close as I could possibly get to the two top stitches. I didn’t have to worry about anything fraying or raveling because both sleeve and facing are fused to interfacing. Then, I pushed the facing through to the right side, pressed it in place, and topstitched.

The rest went together so easily there isn’t much to say. The ties are slightly wider than the neckband, and slightly gathered where they are attached to the neckband.

I LOVE the ties! They are so much fun. I wore it with a bow tied on the left side, but it could easily tie on the right as well. The photos here show the blouse with the tie as I wore it, with a bow tied low in front, with a bow tied low in back, and with the ties wrapped once around the neck and draped dramatically over the shoulders and down the back.

In the photos, the ties sort of blend into the top. IRL the ties stand out more clearly.


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Butterick 6487 Test Run

Inspired by a designer blouse, I wanted to make Butterick  6487 with a couple of potentially complicated alterations. I wanted to move the zipper from back to left shoulder. A zipper on the left shoulder is easier for me to do than one in back. My plan included long ties at the neck that could be tied many different ways, including at the back of the neck and draping down the back. So moving the zipper to the left shoulder keeps it out of the way.

The other potentially troublesome alteration was an FBA. Following the advice from the helpful members of Sewing Pattern Review Forum, I added side darts.

If I was doing just one alteration or the other, in a moderate or cheap fabric, I’d just dive in and do it. But, I planned to use a piece of silk crepe de chine from Fabric Mart. It was a pricier fabric, and no more was available.

So for this make I used some floral rayon challis from my stash, leftovers from a different project. To dress it up a bit I decided to cover the collar and cuffs with scraps of black lace.  I skipped the ties on the sample top.

The FBA went smoothly, and inserting an invisible zipper in the left shoulder seam was surprisingly easy. In fact, everything went together smoothly, until it came time to apply the cuffs to the sleeves. And then I realize I omitted the vent in the sleeve, and the cuff is huge. It flops over my hand. Adding a vent at this stage is trickier than installing a vent while the sleeve is still flat. A vent is a lot of extra steps; cutting the facing or binding, interfacing the opening, installing the vent itself, then the cuff. I’m not sure how easy it will be to put a buttonhole in lace covered fabric.

Throwing caution to the wind I decide to make faux cuffs, permanently sewn closed, just big enough for my hand to slip through. I’ll use the same technique used to attach a ribbed cuff to a knit sleeve, by gathering the end of the sleeve, slipping the sleeve inside the cuff, lining up raw edges and notches, serging the cuff to the sleeve and finally flipping the cuff down.

I start by pinning the cuffs to the proper size, with a red pin holding the inside lap, a blue pin marking the outside overlap, and a white pin matching the button position. I’m not going to do a buttonhole, I’ll just sew the button to all layers of cuff.

Lace band inserted into the sleeve

I start with the sleeves right side out. I mark the notch on the outside/backside of the sleeve with a blue pin. I turned the cuff inside out, slipped it over the sleeve, and lined up the blue pins. I adjusted the gathers evenly around the cuff, and sewed it to the sleeve.

Amazingly, it worked! Then, I closed the cuff and sewed on a permanent decorative button.

Next I attached the sleeves to the bodice, and tried it on. That’s when I discovered Big Mistake Number Two.

The sleeve was way too short and a little weird. What went wrong?? Well, me, of course, I used the WRONG pattern piece!!

I wasn’t giving up on this top! I picked a spot about 4″ about the cuff, and cut the cuff off the sleeve. I used the very last bit of black lace scraps to make wide bands that I inserted into the sleeve. The band extended the sleeve enough so that it fits comfortably. And because I used the same lace on the cuffs and collar it actually looks intentional!

Invisible zip in left shoulder. The zipper tails are not sewn down yet

In spite of the mistakes, the odd corrections, and the fact that the lace and fabric are scraps from other projects this blouse came out nice.

<b>Pattern Description: </b>
Misses blouse with gather detail mock neck, cuff or ruffle sleeve, and optional contrast yoke

<b>Pattern Sizing:</b>

<b>Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?</b>
Yes, in spite of all my errors, it does look like the pattern envelope!

<b>Were the instructions easy to follow?</b>
Yes, the instructions were clear and correct

<b>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</b>
I like the gathering at the mock neck. I did not like the zipper in the back seam

<b>Fabric Used:</b>
Floral rayon challis and black lace. Both are scraps from previous projects

<b>Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:</b>
FBA by adding side darts. Moved the zipper from the back to the left shoulder. The cuffs are mock cuffs, due to my mistake. I added a wide lace band on the lower part of the sleeve, again to correct my mistake

<b>Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?</b>
Yes, I would sew this again. As a matter of fact, this particular blouse is actually a test make for another blouse from this pattern

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Butterick 5954 knit pullover top

Butterick 5954 is an easy, elegant pullover top. I was drawn to the wrap effect with a cowl neck. Cowls are big this year, and I’m happy about that! I missed the full, deep cowl necks from the 1970s.

I used an Aegean blue jacquard knit from Fabric Mart. I made the long sleeved version with the cowl neck. I love it! It’s soft and comfortable. I love the high-low hemline and the super full, swishy back.

This is a very easy pattern, especially views A & B . Views C & D are very easy too, but the construction sequence is a little different. The side seams are sewn and the bottom is hemmed before the shoulder seams are sewn. This is so the finished hem edge is tucked neatly into the shoulder seam. The front is essentially two front pieces, one over the other.

I used my coverstitch machine to finish the hem. The only seams I machine based were the shoulder seams and the armhole seams. Everything else I serged on the first pass. I must say construction goes a lot faster this way!

But I’m glad I basted the shoulder seams, because on the first try, I mixed up the right and left sides. I have dyslexia, so sometimes that happens. I just undid the basting, and tried again. The second time I got it right, so I serged the shoulder seams.

The full swishy back. It’s much nicer in person

I serged the sleeves, and finished them with a coverstitch.

I used the two pass method to attach the cowl. First I lined up one raw edge of the cowl with the raw edge of the neck and stitched it. Then I folded the collar, and stitched in the ditch

Pattern Description:
Easy knit pullover tunic. Close-fitting and flared, pullover tunic has front variations, high-low hemline and narrow hem. Wrong side shows on back hemline. A, B: Scoop neckline. A: Sleeveless. B: Three-quarter sleeves. C: Short sleeves. D: Long sleeves. C, D: Cowl collar and overlapping tulip hem.

Pattern Sizing:

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, it did. Except prettier!

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, they were easy. Views C & D use an unusual construction sequence because of the wrap front, but it’s logical and easy to follow

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The long full swishy back!

Fabric Used:
Poly knit jacquard in Aegean blue

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes to both! I would sew it again (in fact, I already did) and yes, I would recommend it to others

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Kwik Sew 3915 Collar Only

I think a glass of Apothic Crush helped Kwik Sew 3915 find it’s way into my cart. It’s an ordinary Tee pattern with a ruched collar accented with buttons and loops, nothing difficult or unusual. I have plenty of basic Tee patterns. But, the photo on the pattern envelope is charming. And there it was in the package with my other pattern selections. So, why not make it?

I chose a fern green wool jersey from Fabric Mart, and some green glass buttons from my stash. I may change my mind and switch to covered buttons.

I’m glad I took the time to read the pattern envelope and instructions because I saw two very scary words – Negative Ease.  I do NOT want to look like an Old Lady Sausage!

The pattern went on to explain it is supposed to fit tight, and if it’s too loose, go down a size. Tight does not look good on my no-waist figure. So I used the front and back from one of the many other basic Tee patterns I have in my stash. I traced the neck and armholes from Kwik Sew onto my basic pattern.

The button loops were miserable to make, as button loops always are. My first attempt was a failure, the tube came out so small I simply could not turn it inside out. Just. Could. Not. Grrrrr…. I recut another piece a little wider, so my loops are thicker than they are supposed to be. They are practically swallowing my buttons!

Next, I managed to get the collar half-flipped when I sewed it together, creating a wonderful Mobius Collar. Ugh! Disassemble, reassemble.

After installing the collar I discovered my next mistake. The pattern says to use sew in interfacing to reinforce the shoulders and back neck. The interfacing is based in place, sewn into the seams, then the leftover bit trimmed away. I just reached for the fusible knit interfacing I always use, so there’s no trimming away the extra bit. It’s fused to the top. Oh well, it’s on the inside below the neckline and along the shoulder seams, not places that are likely to be seen when the top is worn.

I used a cover stitch hem and sleeve hem. I love to use variegated thread in the looper, it’s my thing. I used green variegated serger thread in the looper, with embroidery thread in the needles. I wound some of the embroidery thread onto a bobbin for the second needle. You can use serger, sewing or embroidery thread in a serger or coverstitch machine. Sometimes, you can use any of these threads in a bobbin on an ordinary machine, too. But you can NOT use serger thread as the top thread in a regular or embroidery machine. The top thread in a sewing or embroidery machine goes through the tension and needle many times. Serger thread will wear out and break. How do I know this? Because I mistook a spool of variegated serger thread for embroidery thread, and tried to use it for embroidery.

Pattern Description: Misses Ruched Neck Tops: Pullover tops are close fitting. A: Long sleeves and V-neckline with lapped collar that is gathered at front neckline with four decorative buttons and loops. B: Short sleeves and wide round faced neckline with neckband that is gathered on front. Pattern includes ¼” (6 mm) seam allowances.

Pattern Sizing: Misses

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, even though I used only the collar

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, BUT I should have read all the way through before sewing! I used fusible interfacing at the neckline, and it isn’t covered by a facing or anything. The pattern calls for non-fusible interfacing, then trimming away the excess.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the collar, the button loops were a pain, as button loops always are.

Fabric Used: Fern Green Wool Jersey from FabricMart

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: The words “negative ease” scared me! I am thick through the middle and “negative ease” can make me look like an old lady sausage, so I used my own looser fitting block for the bodice

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I’d recommend it to anyone who likes snug fitting pullovers. I would make it again, but have no plans to do so.




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Kwik Sew 3121 Revisited and Revised

I love the clothes in the Soft Surroundings catalog. Many of the pieces inspire me to use stuff from my stash. This velvet asymmetrical tunic was my inspiration for a remake of Kwik Sew 3121.

Butterick 6058 and McCalls 7194 were candidates for the starting point to recreate the Soft Surroundings velvet tunic. Kwik Sew is a loose fitting boxy long sleeved dartless Tee pattern.

This pattern might have been a little too boxy to be the best starting point for this tunic, but, I chose it because I had already traced out a full front and full back piece, AND modified those pieces into an A-line shape. All I had to do was cut out the side insert, and add a tail to the insert. And, maybe, slightly modify the cowl neck.

I sketched the tail insert free hand. I decided it wasn’t quite long enough, so I sliced the pattern apart, and added a two inch patch.

I use a single lay, where I laid the fabric out in a single layer, velvet side up, and cut whole pieces (not on any folds). Making the long asymmetrical tail by inserting a separate piece saved a lot of fabric over simply extending the existing pieces.  In fact, this is when I decided to trim off the little tail I’d added to the other side of the tunic, because it gobbled up a lot of extra fabric. I did not cut the collar yet.

Here’s how I assembled it. 1. Sewed shoulder seams and stay stitched around the neck 2. Sewed the front insert to the front and the back insert to the back 3. Sewed the side seams and tried it on. 4. Sewed the sleeve seams, then installed the sleeves into the armholes. 5. Sewed the hem and sleeve hems in a coverstitch using my Babylock Evolve, with blue variegated thread in the looper.

At this point I put the top on and played around with the remaining velvet and a tape measure, and the cowl pattern from Kwik Sew. I knew I wanted my cowl to be thicker and longer than the pattern, so I cut the collar in a <=> sort of shape. When the collar is folded in half, the folded edge is longer than the raw edges.

It’s easy to just stitch the collar to the neck with a serger. But, it seems like when I use this method with cowl necks, that serged edge always manages to work it’s way front and center, not just visible, but framed neatly by the cowl like a focal point. So, I opted for the harder method of stitching one side of the collar on with a serger, then turning under the raw edge and stitching in the ditch to secure the other side of the collar, concealing the seam inside the collar.

Pattern Description: Misses pullover top with long sleeves and three different necklines. A, B: Side vents. A: Shawl collar sewn to a V-neckline. B: Fold-over wide turtleneck collar. C: Boat neckline with a ribbing neckband. It has a dartless, loose fit.

Pattern Sizing: Misses

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Nope! I changed it quite a bit

Were the instructions easy to follow? I did my own thing with this make, but from previous makes, I can say Yes, the instructions are logical, clear and easy to follow.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? No dislikes. I like the simplicity and loose fit

Fabric Used: Stretch velvet

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I added a diagonal inset that tapers into a “tail” on the left side. I made the cowl wider and deeper. I made the sleeve a little slimmer

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and Yes

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Lekala Skirt

Finished Skirt

This easy skirt was an impulse make. I was sorting through leftovers and scraps. I had some pieces of black and white tweed leftover from my attempt at a French Jacket, but not enough for a matching skirt. I did have a lot of this diagonal weave stretchy double knit. I originally bought a LOT of it for leggings, but it didn’t hold up well as pants, and tended to pill. It did hold up well as side panels in a dress, so I thought it might work as side panels in a skirt. I used some thin braided piping to accent the panels.

The Lekala pattern has gathers in only one side of the skirt. I don’t know why or what went wrong for me, but when I had the gathers on one side only, it looked odd. I was sooo disappointed, because I felt that I had wasted the neat little braid and tweedy boucle. Fortunately, I had just enough black and white fabric leftover to cut a new front piece, this time with three diagonal tucks across the front instead of the asymmetrical ruching.

I made the design change before I attached the waistband but after the skirt was assembled. So, I carefully removed the asymmetrical front panel, and replaced it with the new panel featuring three diagonal tucks. The tucks are not as obvious as the awkward ruching, but still adds interest to the skirt.

Lekala Design

I used the stretchy knit for the waistband, so it’s very comfortable. I think the stretchy side panels also add to the comfort.

Pattern Description:

Princess seamed pencil skirt with asymmetrical ruching in the front panel

Pattern Sizing:

All Lekala patterns are printed to your custom size

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes, except for my design change. After assembling the skirt, but before attaching the waistband, I tried it on. It did look like the technical drawing, but I was NOT happy with the odd way my tweedy fabric bubbled out. It just didn’t work in this fabric for me, so I removed the front panel and replaced it with one that has three diagonal tucks.

Second front panel

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Lekala instructions are just a brief list of assembly steps. They are accurate and in a sensible order

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I like that Lekala patterns are custom sized to your measurements. The skirt fits nicely. No dislikes with the pattern, but I wasn’t thrilled with the way my fabric behaved

Fabric Used:

Polyester black and white tweed boucle and twill-look polyester double knit

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I switched the asymmetrical ruching to three diagonal tucks. It’s sleeker, less bubbly and works better with my fabric,

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes, I would sew this again, maybe in a lighter fabric with a softer drape. Yes, I would recommend this pattern. I think even a beginner with a good sewing reference book could make this skirt.

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McCalls 7240 Knit Dress Test Run as a Top

Line Drawings and Fabric Tag

A recent McCalls release included several knit dress patterns that caught my eye. The little contrast yoke with asymmetrical neckline  is just the right touch this simple dress needs.

I need sweaters and tops more than I need dresses. I had a piece of grey and black animal print Hatchi sweater knit from Fabric Mart, and some leftover black stretch velvet in my stash. I decided to use these fabrics to make this pattern into a sweater top.

The line drawings show a wide neckline. I usually don’t care for wide necklines, but I decided to try it as drafted anyway.

Somehow I managed to cut the contrast yoke piece to sit on the RIGHT side of the top instead of the LEFT. Luckily, I also got the front bodice backwards, so my sweater has the contrast yoke on the right. I think this mistake is mine, not the patterns, because I tend to mix up right and left.

My Sweater Top Version

Other than the right-left glitch, the pattern went together quickly and easily. I used my Babylock Evolve to coverstitch the neck, sleeve hems, and hem. Usually I sew major seams with the machine, test the garment, then finish with the serger. This time I threw caution to the wind and serged the seams, which sped up the sewing process.

The neckline came out Wide. Very Wide. It’s elegant, it’s feminine. It’s chilly for a sweater. It exposes my bra strap and a scar. It’s just not right for me.

I used scraps of the animal print knit along with steel grey and solid black knit jerseys to make a swirl scarf. All three fabrics I used were close to 72 inches wide, so the scarf came out a little longer than expected, but looks nice looped twice, covers my neck, and keeps me warm,

I like the look of the asymmetrical neckline and contrast yoke, I’ll a little sad that the scarf partially hides these fun features. I think I will make this again as a dress, maybe in a floral print, but I will make the neck much less wide.

Pattern Description: Loose-fitting, pullover dresses (close-fitting through bust) have left front yoke and narrow hem. A: Short sleeves. B, C: Long sleeves. D: Three-quarter length sleeves and contrast yoke.

All views feature a wide neck, Views C & D have an asymmetrical neckline

With Matching Scarf

Pattern Sizing: Misses

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, except I made mine top length instead of dress length. And, I mixed up my right and left, so the contrast yoke is on the right side instead of the left

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, the instructions were clear and easy to follow

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the contrast yoke and asymmetrical neck line. I dislike the wide neck line, it’s too wide for me.

Fabric Used: Hatchi sweater knit and stretch velvet

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made the pattern top length, because I need tops more than I need dresses.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and yes! I do want to make this in a dress version.


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