Finished the Jacket, Started the Skirt

Serging the side seams

Serging the side seams

Skirt for the Sailor Blouse

I like the flounce on View D on Simplicity 1445. But, I don’t like the little pick up with the bow. The pattern is one piece for the rear flounce, and two for the front flounce. I simply cut two back flounce pieces.

A skirt to match my black fitted blouse sat high on my list of to-do projects, so I can wear the outfit next month. Oh, and so I can get the fabric off my project table. I choose a comfortably large size, so I won’t be letting seam allowances out. I don’t mind if it fits loosely, so I won’t be taking the seams in, either. So I can sew the seams directly on the serger.

Last minute design change - I'm adding a waistband to the inside

Last minute design change – I’m adding a waistband to the inside

After sewing all the vertical seams, I sewed the two back flounce pieces together to form a circle,.Then, still using the serger, I stitched the flounce to the bottom of the skirt. I tried the skirt on. First, I rolled the waistband down to the inside just as the pattern tells you to, creating a hidden casing on the inside of the skirt. But, I like wider elastic for my waistbands. Rolling the top edge down enough to form a deep elastic casing made the skirt a bit shorter than I liked. So I am adding a hidden waistband to the inside of the skirt. I’ll stitch the top edge of the skirt and lining to the top edge of the inner waist band. Then I’ll fold the waistband to the inside, and sew it to the lining leaving the skirt itself free. I’m not sure if it will work or not.

Finished Jacket, front

Finished Jacket, front

Finishing the Jacket

My last post left off with the front and back sections of the jacket complete. The only major piece left were the sleeves.

I enlarged and lengthened the sleeves. I slit the arm sleeves open and inserted a rectangular gusset for more width. The extra sleeve seam is hidden under the arm. But, they were still too short, so I added a band at the bottom for length. I couldn’t hide that seam! I thought about emphasizing it as some sort of design detail, but in the end I just ignored it.

I used black poly/lycra ribbing from Fabric Mart to cut the collar and cuffs. I applied the cuffs to the sleeves, and set them aside. I sewed the back to the front at the shoulder seams, and attached the collar. Finally, I sewed the side seams.

The drapey cowl neck on the original dress added ease to the bust line. Cutting away the cowl cut away the ease. The wide overlap down the front added most (maybe all?) of the ease back in. But, because this is a jacket that will be worn over other clothes, I wanted still more bust room. I tossed around some ideas, and finally decided to add football shaped gussets to the side seams directly below the sleeve.

Back of the jacket, showing how I pieced it

Back of the jacket, showing how I pieced it

Finally I set the sleeves in the jacket. And now, I was at the final step; a decorative button and button loop. I had no suitable button. I searched Ebay and Etsy and found the perfect button on Etsy. So I had to put the almost-finished jacket to one side and wait for my button.

My button arrived on a Friday. I sewed it on that night. For the button loop I used a chunk of seam allowance from when I cut the old garment apart. I wore the jacket to a party Saturday night, and first thing in the morning Sunday to go sailing. Finally I took photos on Tuesday.

I love my new jacket! I am way behind the contest now, though. They have finished round two and are starting round three. I’m glad I sewed along on the first round, it was a great challenge and I’m really happy with my remade garment!




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