McCalls 7464 – A Freebie!

McCalls 7464 is a variation of a princess seam dress. Drafted for wovens or stable knits, this fitted sheath dress features two circular insets at the sides, short sleeves and a jewel neck.

I decided to use rayon ponte. I had a few scraps of Italian Ocean Navy rayon ponte from Mood that I used to make a pantsuit for a Washington DC visit last year. I wanted a dress that would work with that jacket. I had just enough scraps to make the circular insets. Ponte is a sturdy knit so I knew it would work.

Oh, and because they are leftover scraps, technically they are “free”. According to the Sewing Stash Accounting Method. 🙂

What to do for the rest of the dress? I had two serious options. One was a light baby blue rayon ponte from Fabric Mart, the other was medium blue scraps of rayon ponte, also from Fabric Mart, leftover from my dress McCalls    .

I chose the medium blue. I thought it looked better with the dark insets. Either way I’m pulling from the stash, but I’d rather use up leftovers than make more leftovers. And, leftover scraps count as “free”.

I’ve already used the pattern before, so that’s also “free”.

Free pattern + Free dark blue inserts + Free medium blue body fabric = FREE!  LOL!

It wasn’t quite that easy. There was sufficient medium blue, just not in the correct shape. I was able to cut the back pieces out full length. But not the front. No way. So where to piece it? I decided to piece it at the shoulders, because people are used to seeing yoke seams near the shoulder area.

The adjusted pattern piece.

Next I did an FBA. The last time I made this dress I simply made it a size too big and tried to take in the shoulder area, because doing a princess seam FBA with the circular inserts looked tricky. That probably wasn’t the best move, it sure wasn’t an easy one. This time I did the FBA

I started with the usual method of FBA for a princess seam, working with the circular insert. I sliced the dart, from the bottom through the bust point then angled towards the armhole.

Well this put more fabric in the piece, but… the lower section of the piece had to maintain both shape and length in order to match up properly with the insets on the back.  So after adding the space, I closed the dart and pulled the bottom edge back to itself. The end result looks sort of weird, but puts the extra fabric where I need it and still fits neatly with the back inset pieces. It was not an easy FBA

But the pattern itself is easy. And this rayon ponte fabric is very easy to sew.

Originally I added a navy blue neckband. But, the neck felt a little bit too high. I plan to wear this dress in warm weather, so I wanted it lower. Also, the dark blue seemed to call extra attention to the piecing seams at the shoulders. So I cut the neck lower, just eyeballed it, and used a piece of light blue for the neck.

As usual, I machine basted everything with a narrow zig zag stitch before finishing on the serger. Even with the piecing at the shoulders, the dress came out a little short. The back came out a few inches longer, so I cut another piece of blue and used it as a facing on the front hem. The front hem is a little bit thicker, and therefore stiffer, than the back, but it isn’t noticeable when the dress is worn.

I finished the sleeves and hem with my coverstitch machine. I used blue embroidery thread in cover needles 1 & 3, and blue variegated thread in the looper.

<b>Pattern Description: </b>
Fitted dresses have side-front and side-back panels and sleeve variations. A, D: Purchased piping. A: Contrast side-front and side-back. B: Patch pockets. C: Bias side-front and side-back. A: Sleeveless. B, C: Short sleeves. D: Elbow-length sleeves.

<b>Pattern Sizing:</b>
Misses/Misses Petite

<b>Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?</b>
Yes

<b>Were the instructions easy to follow?</b>
Yes, the instructions were clear and correct. All the notches and markings lined up

<b>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</b>
I love the curved, almost circular side panels. It’s a very slimming look

<b>Fabric Used:</b>
Rayon ponte leftover from other projects

<b>Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:</b>
FBA. It was an interesting challenge

<b>Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?</b>
Maybe and Yes. This is my second make, so, not really sure how many more I need of this style. I do recommended it, it’s a classic look and an easy sew

 

 

McCalls 7094 Comfy summer woven pullover

When the weather gets hot, I find myself reaching for my rayon challis tops and shirts. Cotton voile is cool and crisp, but also rather sheer. Rayon is soft, cool and opaque, but does tend to wrinkle. Rayon is made from wood pulp, so in spite of the name it’s actually considered a natural fiber, and shares the same qualities as cotton and linen.

The rayon challis I chose for McCalls 7094 is an abstract floral print from the stash, originally from Fabric Mart. I wanted a contrasting collar, tabs and front placket. But nothing in my rayon stash matched. A scrap of blue cotton looked ok. Then I stumbled across a 1 yard piece of purple habotai silk. It doesn’t exactly match, but it does contrast nicely with the abstract print.

The dartless bodice features tucks at the yoke. I did a FBA by adding a dart, then rotating the dart to the shoulder. From there I tried to distribute the dart evenly between the tucks, but it turned out to be trickier than I thought. I gave up on even and settled for neat.

I used a variation of the “Burrito Method” to assemble the yoke, instead of the method suggested in the instructions. Everything went smoothly until the collar. My first attempt was terrible! And then I damaged the collar piece trying to fix it! I cut a new collar piece. Again, it did not go on perfectly, but it is on and looks ok.

I like this full, blousy top, and I know I’ll wear it often when the weather gets hot.

Pattern Description: 
Very loose-fitting, pullover tops have neck and front bands that form inverted notches, front pleated and back gathered into yoke with forward shoulder seams, no shoulder seams, one-way front pleat and narrow hem. A: Sleeveless. A, D: High-low hemline. B:Contrast bands. B, C: Button tabs. C: Back tulip hem. D: Long sleeves. Rolled sleeves Band C, and shaped hemline A, D: Wrong side shows.

Pattern Sizing:
Misses

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, it did

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, the instructions were clear and correct, and the pattern markings were accurate

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I struggled a little with the neckband, but I do like it and the inverse notch. I like the comfortable fullness

Fabric Used:
Rayon challis in an abstract floral print from Fabric Mart a while ago.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Just the usual fba

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes and yes. It’s a wonderful summer top, and the view with the tulip back is nice

McCalls 7890 – Fun Summer Dress

McCalls 7890 is a casual button front dress with a twist – the button placket runs diagonally from neck to hem. The empire waist in front features under the bust gathers, and the waist seam  slopes to normal at the side.

I used a black floral cotton/linen blend, with a grey linen band. Both fabrics were in my stash, originally from Fabric Mart, purchased at different times.

I did my usual FBA on the pattern, rotating the extra fullness to under the bust.

Sadly, I mismeasured when I cut the pattern. I didn’t realize how much the waist seam dipped, and so did not account for my, um, “upper hip fluff”. I released the back darts, but it was still way too snug and pulled awkwardly.

The fix was easy enough. I cut two bias strips and inserted them into the side seams like godets. I don’t think the problem was the pattern, I think it was my mistake.

Other than that, this pattern sewed up quickly and easily. I know part of that is due to the fabric, because this stuff is just so easy to sew. I did things a bit different than the instructions. I used a variation of the Burrito Method to attach the back yoke.

The diagonal front button band makes a strong design statement. But, I really love the upper bodice/bust. I wish I could find a pattern like this with a vertical button band! But, until I do, I’ll probably make more of these. I think the next one will be a pale sage/olive green plaid linen

<b>Pattern Description: </b>
Fitted tunic and dresses have asymmetrical button-front opening with band, double yoke, slightly dropped shoulder and shaped hem with length and sleeve variations. A, B: Elasticized sleeve. D: Purchased bias tape for armohole

<b>Pattern Sizing:</b>
Misses

<b>Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?</b>
Yes, it did

<b>Were the instructions easy to follow?</b>
Yes, the instructions were clear and correct, and the pattern markings were accurate

<b>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</b>
I love the empire waist and gently gathered bust. The diagonal front band is cool, too.

<b>Fabric Used:</b>
Cotton/linen blend print from Fabric Mart. Contrasting band is full linen also from Fabric Mart.

<b>Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:</b>
I did my usual fba — but, something went wrong and the dress was too tight across my waist. I did not account for my upper hip fluff. I think I did not realize how low the waist seam drops at the sides, causing inaccurate measurements. The fix was a godet in the side seams

<b>Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?</b>
Yes and yes. I have some plaid linen that I’d like to use for the tunic version. The diagonal front band makes a strong design statement, that is my only concern

Love Notions Trendy Tunic – Hacked

The Cleveland Clinic compound is a massive, sprawling complex. It hosts the usual hospital and laboratory stuff, along with two gigantic cafeterias, long halls lined with gift shops, book shops and boutiques, and a tiny handful of “healthy” fast food kiosks. The long trek from the parking garage to my husbands hospital room led through an underground pedestrian tunnel, across the vast lobby, down the hallway of shops, through a huge waiting area, up some elevators to his floor and finally just a few turns to reach his room.

The first time I made my way along the route I really didn’t pay much attention to the shops, I was too busy following signs, maps, and directions. The next time I knew where to go. I was wearing a pullover, a Jalie pattern, in space-dyed blue polyester knit from Fabric Mart. And there, in the window of the shop, was a pullover in the EXACT SAME FABRIC!  I was intrigued, but also in a hurry, so I kept going, planning to stop on my way back. But, they were closed. The next day I tried to take a photo of the boutique pullover, but a manager shooed me away. Apparently, he did not want people doing what I did, that is, copying the garment. Lucky for him I had no more of this space-dyed blue, and neither does Fabric Mart! Anyway, on that day, I left around dinner time and the shop was still open. I grabbed my phone and snagged a quick, blurry snapshot.

Two features on this inspiration pullover caught my attention right away. The first is the deep, drapey pockets. The second is the princess seams from the neck. Not anywhere on the armhole, not the shoulder, from the neck. Very unusual.

I started my recreation with the Trendy Tunic from Love Notions. This is my first Love Notions pattern. I like that you can, if you wish, print only one size (I printed them all, because I cross sizes and usually need FBA). I dislike taping pdf patterns together.

The instructions are well written, correct and clear. They are detailed enough for a beginner to tackle this project.

For my fabric I chose a stash piece, a 2 yard cut of berry red rayon/lycra jersey knit from Fabric Mart.

Next I started pattern hacking. I dislike taping pdf patterns together and this was no exception. What I do like about pdf patterns is that I can print as many copies as I want. Instead of tracing a pattern piece then chopping up the tracing, I can chop up the printout itself. For the next make I can print out and tape together a new one.

The original pattern has a bodice seam line that ends at the top of the sleeve cap. I taped the center front and side front bodice pieces together, then cut them apart creating a new seam line that ends in the neck. Next, I slit and spread the pocket section of the center front bodice, to make it saggy. I also slashed and spread the inside pocket piece to match.

The pullover went together quickly and fairly easily, considering I hacked it. I wish I had curved the upper seam inward more, and had it meet the neck closer to the center for more definition. Keeping the slippery fabric and baggy pocket under control required a lot of pins.

As usual for me, I sewed the seams on the machine with a narrow zig zag stitch. When I was sure the seam was correct I finished it with the serger. I really really hate ripping out serged seams! I’d rather spend the extra time and effort needed to pre sew and check each seam than the time and effort required to rip out a serged seam.

Then, disaster struck. The wide band I’d cut for the cowl neck vanished. I blame my cats. I put the top aside for awhile to see if the missing piece would turn up. It didn’t. Eventually I realized my cowl neck piece is just gone, so I pieced another, somewhat skimpy, cowl neck from the scraps.

I like this top a lot. I’m happy with my hack. It isn’t perfect (wish I could find that cowl piece!) but I like it a lot and it’s very close to the inspiration. I also like this pattern, and plan to make another, unhacked version.

<b>Pattern Description: </b>
Princess seam pullover with pockets

<b>Pattern Sizing:</b> XS to XXL

<b>Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?</b> Yes, as much as it was supposed to

<b>Were the instructions easy to follow?</b>
Yes, the instructions were clear and correct, and quite detailed

<b>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</b>
I like the princess seams with pockets

<b>Fabric Used:</b>
Rayon/Lycra Jersey

<b>Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:</b>
I turned the princess seams in towards the neck. I made the pockets big and baggy, and used a cowl for the neck

<b>Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?</b>
Yes and Yes